Located at the heart of the ancient city of Angkor Thom in Cambodia, the Bayon temple stands as a testament to the creative genius and spiritual devotion of the Khmer Empire. Built in the late 12th or early 13th century, it was the state temple of King Jayavarman VII and the last great temple constructed at Angkor. While its contemporary, Angkor Wat, is famous for its grand scale and classical design, the Bayon is a striking expression of the “Baroque style” of Khmer architecture, captivating visitors with its distinctive and enigmatic features.
The most iconic and memorable characteristic of the Bayon is the multitude of serene, smiling stone faces that adorn its numerous towers. Originally believed to have 54 towers representing the 54 provinces of the Khmer Empire, only 37 remain standing today. Each tower is carved with up to four massive faces, gazing out in the cardinal directions. The identity of these faces has been a subject of much debate among scholars. Many believe they represent the compassionate Bodhisattva Avalokiteshvara, a key figure in Mahayana Buddhism, the religion championed by Jayavarman VII. However, the uncanny resemblance of the faces to other statues of the king has led many to conclude that they are also a representation of Jayavarman VII himself, blending the king’s image with the divine. This fusion of royal and spiritual identity reinforces his role as a god-king, a common theme in Khmer monumental architecture.
Beyond the captivating faces, the Bayon is renowned for its two impressive sets of bas-reliefs. The outer gallery features a remarkable and lively depiction of daily life and historical events from the 12th century. The intricate carvings illustrate scenes of naval battles between the Khmer and the Cham, military processions, and a wide array of ordinary activities like marketplaces, fishing, and cockfighting. This provides a rare and invaluable glimpse into the social and cultural life of the Khmer people. In contrast, the inner gallery, added later, features fragmented reliefs that primarily depict scenes from Hindu mythology, a reflection of the religious shifts that occurred after Jayavarman VII’s reign.
The Bayon’s history is as complex as its architecture. Initially a Mahayana Buddhist temple, it was altered during the mid-13th century when the Khmer Empire briefly reverted to Hinduism under King Jayavarman VIII. During this time, many Buddhist images were destroyed or modified, and Hindu elements were added. Later, under subsequent Theravada Buddhist kings, the temple underwent further modifications. This layering of religious influences and architectural changes gives the Bayon its intricate and maze-like structure, a stark contrast to the more open and symmetrical layout of Angkor Wat.
Unlike other temples in the Angkor complex that are surrounded by their own walls and moats, the Bayon sits at the exact center of Angkor Thom, its protective fortifications being those of the city itself. This symbolic placement represents the Bayon as the pivotal mountain at the center of the universe, with Angkor Thom’s moats and walls completing a grand representation of the “Churning of the Sea of Milk” legend.
Despite centuries of neglect and the ravages of time, the Bayon temple continues to stand as a powerful symbol of Cambodia’s rich history and cultural heritage. Its mysterious smiling faces, intricate bas-reliefs, and unique “baroque” design make it a must-see for anyone exploring the Angkor Archaeological Park, offering an experience that is both awe-inspiring and deeply thought-provoking.
Join The Discussion